October 21-23, 2024.
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Neither of us had ever seen the Great Lakes, so we knew we had to stop by on our trek across the northern United States. With lots of folks recommending a visit to the North Shore of Lake Superior and a tight schedule, we decided to commit at least a day to get a sample. We pulled into an overlook that allows overnight parking in the dark of night, anticipating our first view when we awoke in the morning.
Good morning
We got up at the break of dawn and I rushed outside to get a view of the lake. Pink and orange skies greeted me with a warm welcome. I poked around at the various viewpoints accessible from our camp spot until I found the best one. Sure enough, there was a big lake outside. I’m not sure what I expected, but it was even bigger than that. I didn’t linger long because we had a packed agenda for the day. We needed to cram a full week’s trip to the north shore in just a couple of days.
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Tettegouche State Park
We made a quick morning stop at Tettegouche State Park to reserve a campsite and get some info from the park ranger. As usual, we got some great suggestions from an enthusiastic ranger (even about other parks!) and set off on our adventures.
First we did a short hike behind the visitor center to Shovel Point. This fabulous hike packs a lot of wow into less than 2 miles roundtrip. We walked past one gorgeous viewpoint after another, the weather and views getting nicer with each one. A panoramic view waited for us at the end of the trail. It felt like we were standing on top of cliffs at the edge of the ocean! The lake is so big that my brain had a really hard time processing the size of it.
After visiting Grand Marais and Temperance State Park (see below), we returned here to camp. The following day, we hiked to some local highpoints from our campsite.
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I used Peakery to help me piece together a hike. I like this website because it places a triangular icon over every “highpoint” (dubiously defined) on the map. It also has a basemap that includes topographic lines and trails. I figured we could hit two highpoints in about 5 miles. We followed the trail from the Baptism River Campground over Red Pine Knob, past the Drainpipe and to Raven Rock. It was a nice route through the autumn leaves on a relatively quiet trail. We got great views from Raven Rock and enjoyed a good leg stretcher before spending an afternoon on the road.
Grand Marais
Several people recommended a stop at Grand Marais, so we continued driving north until we hit it. I really wanted to walk out to the lighthouse before the weather moved in, since the path is exposed to wind and waves. I had a blast exploring the rocks and walking out on the narrow concrete pathway into the lake. With only one rail on the side of the path, it felt quite exposed walking all the way to the lighthouse. Just the way I like it!
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After visiting the lighthouse, we turned back and wandered over to Artist’s Point. Along the way, we stopped to examine the many names carved into the rock, some in beautiful script handwriting. The carvings dated back to the late 1800’s! It felt weird to be so close to a massive body of water with no salt spray in the air nor tidepools to explore. I had to keep telling myself: this is a L-A-K-E.
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For lunch we chose the Angry Trout Cafe. At this point, the clouds were threatening but the rain hadn’t arrived yet. Our server sat us outside at a beautiful table overlooking the water. We could see the lighthouse we just walked to. Upon her recommendation, we ordered the catch of the day: herring fish and chips. Yes, herring. I’d never had herring before, nor did I think it was the kind of fish you’d use for fish and chips. But it was absolutely delicious. We gobbled down every bite.
Grand Marais struck me as a hot summer destination that is not as pleasant to visit in the fall. Like tourists towns on the Oregon Coast, most of the shops and restaurants were closed and there wasn’t much to do. I couldn’t even find an open grocery store there! We’d already done the marquis hike there, so we decided to leave.
Temperance River State Park
Here I stopped for another ranger-recommended hike along the west side of the Temperance River. She had handed me a printout of the map and highlighted a 2 mile route for me, so I followed her advice. Again, it was a real winner. I walked along an incredible gorge carved into a myriad shapes by the water running through it. I stopped frequently to take photos, listen to the rushing water and notice the swirling patterns in water and rock.
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Near the turnaround point, I clambered down along the rocks near the river and found a place to sit. I pulled out my painting kit and did my best to capture the stunning scene: black water cascading down a stairway of stone, fall foliage providing a seasonal backdrop and the rock itself putting on its own show of color. I had to pack up a little earlier than I wanted because the rain finally began to fall. As I’ve learned, rain and watercolor don’t mix!
Betty’s Pies
On our way to Duluth, we saw a sign for Betty’s Pies. This was another spot that came recommended by friends and family familiar with this area, so we took a short detour for a pie and coffee break.
I’d love to say that these were the best pies we’d ever had but…they just weren’t. They were fine, and reasonably priced. The service was fast and friendly. But best pies, I don’t think so. If I find myself in the area again, I wouldn’t go back.
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Overall, we enjoyed our whirlwind introduction to the North Shore of Lake Superior! I would love to come back at a different time of year, maybe not peak season but definitely at a time where more things are open. And I’d love to have more time here. But, we still have to get across the country on a deadline, so off we go…
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